In this book the author, Herve This (pronounced "Tees"), explains the chemistry and physics of what takes place during cooking reactions in the kitchen; augmented with a little bit of cellular biology. The whole concept sounds a bit off-putting. In reality it moves along very quickly with the author breaking down very complex processes into very simple terminology. It does explain why we do what we do in the kitchen to achieve the desired flavor results. Although the title may suggest otherwise, it is a book that the casual reader can peruse without too much difficulty.
The book is divided into four sections. The first section delves into some of the basic cooking techniques and tries to debunk some common food preparation myths. It takes a very Francocentric view on cooking with chapters on some things of which the average person has probably never heard. The more important sections include the science behind various simple cooking techniques like making stocks, using vinegars and wine for marinating, roasting meats, and the use of salt in enhancing flavor. Some other not so useful sections include the correct methods for cooling down a cup of coffee and the debunking of the myth that putting a teaspoon in an open champagne bottle will keep it from losing its bubbles. I think these were some added tidbits for the reader to expound upon in dinner conversations.
The second section deals with the science behind our ability to taste. It covers recent studies on the taste sensors in the mouth and aroma sensors in the nose that actually create the flavors that we sense. One of the most interesting sections deals with how using salt can actually trick the palate, creating sweet sensations when none exist. There is also a section which includes some new science about how temperature actually plays a role in flavor sensations. There is some evidence that heating the tip of the tongue actually produces a sweet flavor sensation.
The third and longest section of the book deals with the actual scientific studies underlying many of the basic concepts. It is at times very enlightening and equally maddening. Many questions are posed and many questions are left unanswered. I am not sure this was an editing mistake or a translational problem (the original was written in French and translated into English). For example the questions about the right way to cook pasta are posed, including the question about needing to salt the water or not. The salting question is never answered, which leaves the reader wondering why it was asked in the first place. If you can skip over these omissions, you will glean some good information from this section.
The fourth section of the book supposedly has to do with using modern techniques for applying what we have learned in the earlier chapters. There is a bit of a rant about using medieval cooking techniques in a modern world. The application of scientific techniques to cooking is interesting. I do not think the use of foams or concentrated chemical additives in cooking is going to catch on anytime soon in the average household. This type of cooking is becoming more of an accepted trend in restaurants. The science behind what you are eating in these trendy places makes for an interesting read.
There is a lot about the science of cooking in this book. It is also fair to say that there is little in the book that will lead one to begin using many non-traditional cooking techniques. It is interesting to know that theoretically it is possible to make several liters of mayonnaise from one egg yolk. Just because it is possible does not mean it will lead to a better mayonnaise. As a primer on the basic science of cooking and taste this is a good book to read. I do not think it will inspire you to start making foamy concoctions any time soon.
Jeremy Bacon is a self-taught cook, traveler, writer, and occasional gourmand. He writes about all of these subjects on his blog, The Busy Gourmand. You can access the blog at http://www.busygourmand.com/. You may contact him at jeremy@busygourmand.com.
© 2010 The Busy Gourmand
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